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Are you ready to plant???

We have been waiting so eagerly to put our hands in the soil and grow…whether you started your plants from seed or purchased starts-plants need to be hardened off to your landscape prior to being transplanting.

What does this mean and why? For those plants grown indoors under lights or glazing (greenhouse coverings) they have enjoyed a lot of cotteling. Including but not limited too: constant consistent temperatures, timely watering, frequent feedings, reduced UV light exposure, minimal wind, limited pest pressure and lack of exposure to the soil ecosystem.

All of these protective measure have grown strong healthy plants but can they withstand the forces of nature on your landscape? If we take our juvenile plants and place them directly into the outdoor environment without a hardening off period, there may be some rather shocking impacts.

Suddenly plants that have adapted to a protective environment are now subjected to fierce drying winds, massive fluctuations in temperature, intense UV exposure, “pest” pressure and cooler soil temperatures. A period of gradual transition to their new home will allow for adaptation to occur so that they may thrive in nature.

Excluding the warm loving plants that may suffer tissue damage below 45F (tomatoes, peppers, squash, pumpkins, corn, dahlias, sunflowers, zinnias and others) many cultivated varieties can handle cooler temperatures. What they cannot handle is direct and immediate exposure to UV rays. Sunburn and sunscald are the most common concerns that will come up during this time of year.

Taking a broad focus to include as many plants as possible:

In a protective location out of the wind and direct light- away from pets, littles and wild animals

Start hardening off with time: setting plants out plants each day for a period of time (start with one hour and increase every day over a 10 day period)

Use directional hardening off: start in the North, move to the East, then to the West and finally the South

Increase watering and fertility: we want to give our plants the best chance at survival and the capacity to fend off “pests” and disease. Restricting food and water (although are adaptations in the wild) decreases a plants health and vitality. We are growing in managed ecologies with a goal of food production…our actions should reflect that.

Once your plants are in their new homes you may find that they are not looking so well. This is a period of adjustment as plants are taken from the current vessel that lacks all the biodiversity that living soil has to offer. Once transplanted, new relationships within the soil will begin to form with millions of microorganisms, fungi, bacteria, nematodes and protozoa. Your plant is now the new kid at school and it will take time for the root system to become part of an even bigger system. Help your plants through this phase with light feedings, warm water, staking and of course wind protection.

Once our trees fully leaf, the temperatures are consistently in the 60Fs and soil temperatures are above 50F…we will begin to see a massive influx of insects who are hungry! Will your plants be strong and healthy enough to fend off this initial pressure? They will because you have hardened them off.

 

Register for classes: https://seedsandsoilorganics.com/shop/

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To soak or not to soak…that is the question (?)

The ecological relationship between seed and soil is like a symphony; there are natural cues that promote germination.

One of the major cues is moisture level! When the conditions are right, the seed will follow its own instinct and begin to swell. Once the seed coat is soft and moist the new seedling erupts into life.

The germination time for seeds varies greatly depending on the species. Some seeds can take years for germination (peonies) and others germinate in less than three days (cabbage family). We can use a mechanical force to speed the germination time (soaking).

Large seeds with hard coats (sunflowers, honeywort, peas, beans, corn and sweet peas) will appreciate a longer soaking- up to 24 hours.

Larger seeds with softer coats such as pumpkins, squash, chard, beets, nasturtium and cucumber are perfect to soak overnight.

Small seeds like lettuce, radish, carrots and tomatoes can become mushy and sticky if soaked too long (15-30 min) is appropriate.

Find a shallow bowl, place your seeds and top with water. Set away from pets, kids and spouses out of direct sunlight and in a warm location. Warm water is best but any water will do (what would nature do).

Once seeds have soaked and swelled…it is time to plant! Follow your seed packet guidelines for planting depth or reference our write up: https://seedsandsoilorganics.com/…/seed-starting-simply/

When in doubt…ask the question: What would nature do?

Alaska Sown-Alaska Grown

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What zone are you in? Above frozen ground..

The USDA has a tool that outlines annual extremes for minimum temperature across 13 areas of the U.S.

An example of a zone represented in Southcentral Alaska is zone 4.

The USDA map has minimum temperatures of -30F to -20F for zone 4.

We can use this zone tool to help guide us when adding perennials (plants that live more than two years) and biennials (plants that complete their lifecycle in two years) to our garden spaces.

If I am shopping and find a “zone 7” plant , I may be able to grow this plant as an annual but the rate of overwinter survival will be less as the minimum temperature for a “zone 7” plant is 0F to 10F and the minimum temperatures in zone 4 may be way too cold for this plants survival without certain extreme protection measures.

When we are discussing annual plants (those plants that complete their life cycle in one year) we need know our frost free dates. This is the span of time where we can reasonably expect not to have killing frosts (28F and below).

For my landscape and microclimate growing spaces this is from May 1 (ish) – Sept 30 (ish). As nature doesn’t always fit in the “box” we can expect seasons to extend and sometimes shorten.

Nature is dynamic…not static

Certain plants can withstand much colder temperatures and overwintering with meticulous care of the soil, the enhancement of natural microclimates and a keen understanding of individual plant species coupled with extensive season extension. Taking growing risks is a fun garden challenge I look forward to every year.

We can use these tools as a guide to direct us towards plant choices and landscape design. Check your zone for perennials and biennials and know your frost free dates for annuals.

Here is a link for the USDA hardiness zones: https://plants.usda.gov/hardiness.html

Here is a link for frost free dates: https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates