Author: seedsandsoilorganics

Alaska Gardening- Starting Seeds indoors:

Starting seeds indoors is a fun and rewarding way to get a jump-start on the growing season. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you successfully germinate seeds and get them ready for the garden.

Alaska Gardening- Starting Seeds indoors

1. Gather Supplies

First, you’ll need some supplies:

– Seed starting trays or small pots

– Seed starting mix (a light, fluffy soil that’s ideal for seeds)

– Plant labels and a marker

– A watering can or spray bottle

– A heat mat (optional, but helpful)

– Grow lights

2. Plant Your Seeds

Fill your trays or pots with the seed starting mix. Moisten the soil with water using a spray bottle or small watering can. It should be damp but not soaking wet. Plant the seeds according to the packet instructions. Some seeds need to be covered with soil, while others should be left on the surface because they need light to germinate. If your seeds need light, simply press them gently into the surface of the soil but don’t cover them.

3. Control Temperature

Most seeds germinate best in warm conditions, around 65-75°F. Placing a heat mat under your seed trays can help maintain a constant temperature. Keep the trays in a place where the temperature stays even, away from cold drafts or excessive heat.

4. Keep Soil Moist

Keeping the soil evenly moist is crucial. Use a spray bottle to mist the soil surface gently if it begins to dry out. Avoid heavy watering which can disturb the seeds or create too much moisture, leading to mold or fungus.

5. Provide Light

Set up grow lights over the seed trays. This is especially important for seeds that need light to germinate. The lights should be kept about 2-3 inches above the plants and should be on for about 14-16 hours a day to mimic natural daylight.

6. Potting Up

Once your seedlings have grown their second set of true leaves (the leaves that appear after the initial, often different-looking seed leaves), they’re ready to be moved to a larger pot. This gives them more room to grow and develop stronger roots.

7. Hardening Off

Before planting your seedlings outside, they need to adjust to outdoor conditions through a process called hardening off. Begin about a week before you plan to plant them in the garden. Place the seedlings outside in a sheltered spot for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their time outdoors over several days. Protect them from strong winds and direct sunlight at first. This process toughens them up by thickening the cuticle on the leaves so they can handle the sun and variable temperatures outside.

By following these steps, you’ll help your seeds start off strong and healthy, ready to thrive in your garden!

Take one of our seed starting classes: https://seedsandsoilorganics.com/product/spring-seed-starting-online/

Alaska Gardening-Signs of Spring-As the snow melts and the ground thaws, many folks are ready to transplant, to seed and start growing. I have the itch myself after what has seemed like a hard Alaskan winter.

Alaska Gardening-Signs of Spring. Nature is giving hints that our time is approaching. Flowering bulbs are pushing through the soil with some even blooming in warm microclimates. Certain perennials are beginning to put on their new growth. Fruiting trees are showing leaf buds and insects are making their first appearances.

With all these signs of life and the desire to awaken our growing spaces…there are still many other indications that we need to have some patience.

Nightime temperatures are still in the “killing frost” zone for many cultivated plants. Areas of the soil are still frozen below 6″. Soil life is just beginning to emerge and make new economies for trading resources.

We are still covered in feet of snow albeit melting quickly. Soil is nature’s water catchment…soil needs time to allow the water to infiltrate and turn mud into a thriving ecosystem to support plants.

So what is “as soon as the soil can be worked”? There are specific plant scenarios but we will stick with a broad focus to include as many plants as possible.

Soil temperatures around 50F – not only is this nearing the optimal temperature for soil life but it is a great indicator that those seeds that appreciate a cooler soil temperature (peas, cilantro, spinach and others) will germinate more evenly and timely. If we seed too early there is potential that the soil is too cold for germination. Seeds will sprout with the soil temperature and soil moisture nurture life.

Soil is dry (ish) you can squeeze a ball and it is not dripping wet. If we seed too early…for those seeds that do not have a hard coat (carrots, lettuce, arugula) they can rot with too much soil moisture. If we transplant too early into heavy mud, roots can rot as well. Soil life, air, water and nutrients need to move freely throughout the soil. Think “would I want to grow in this soil”?

Nightime temperatures consistently in the 40s for cold hardy plants (caution here…too cold and broccoli will button instead of crown). Our current temperatures are perfect for perennials and biennials to emerge from their sleep. They are extremely hardy and are prepared for what lies ahead.

As for the warm loving plants (squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, dahlias, zinnias, eggplants and others) many will suffer tissue damage at 45F. It is truly best to wait until night time temperatures are in the upper 50s to transplant. This may be the first week of June for South Central.

Many folks may be new to gardening or new to Alaska. I will say as my 17th Spring that anything goes…it is the wild! When in doubt look to when the trees leaf- around the second or third week in May. This is an excellent time to grow!

Join The Alaska Gardener Course: https://seedsandsoilorganics.com/product/the-alaska-gardener-complete-gardening-course-package/

Alaska Gardening – Hardening Off

Alaska Gardening – Hardening Off-We have been waiting so eagerly to put our hands in the soil and grow…whether you started your plants from seed or purchased starts-plants need to be hardened off to your landscape prior to being transplanted.

What does this mean and why? For those plants grown indoors under lights or glazing (greenhouse coverings) they have enjoyed a lot of coddling…including but not limited: constant consistent temperatures, timely watering, frequent feedings, reduced UV light exposure, minimal wind, limited pest pressure and lack of exposure to the soil ecosystem.

All of these protective measures have grown strong healthy plants but can they withstand the forces of nature on your landscape? If we take our juvenile plants and place them directly into the outdoor environment without a hardening off period, there may be some rather shocking impacts.

Suddenly plants that have adapted to a protective environment are now subjected to fierce drying winds, massive fluctuations in temperature, intense UV exposure, “pest” pressure and cooler soil temperatures. A period of gradual transition to their new home will allow for adaptation to occur so that they may thrive in nature.

Excluding the warm loving plants that may suffer tissue damage below 45F (tomatoes, peppers, squash, pumpkins, corn, dahlias, sunflowers, zinnias and others) many cultivated varieties can handle cooler temperatures. What they cannot handle is direct and immediate exposure to UV rays. Sunburn and sunscald are the most common concerns that will come up during this time of year.

Taking a broad focus to include as many plants as possible:

In a protective location out of the wind and direct light- away from pets, littles and wild animals.

Start hardening off with time: setting plants out plants each day for a period of time (start with one hour and increase every day over a 10 day period)

Use directional hardening off: start in the North, move to the East, then to the West and finally the South

Increase watering and fertility: we want to give our plants the best chance at survival and the capacity to fend off “pests” and disease. Restricting food and water (although are adaptations in the wild) decreases a plants health and vitality. We are growing in managed ecologies with a goal of food production…our actions should reflect that.

Once your plants are in their new homes you may find that they are not looking so well. This is a period of adjustment as plants are taken from the current vessel that lacks all the biodiversity that living soil has to offer. Once transplanted, new relationships within the soil will begin to form with millions of microorganisms, fungi, bacteria, nematodes and protozoa. Your plant is now the new kid at school and it will take time for the root system to become part of an even bigger system. Help your plants through this phase with light feedings, warm water, staking and of course wind protection.

Once our trees fully leaf, the temperatures are consistently in the 60Fs and soil temperatures are above 50F…we will begin to see a massive influx of insects who are hungry! Will your plants be strong and healthy enough to fend off this initial pressure? They will because you have hardened them off.

 Join other The Alaska Gardener Course: https://seedsandsoilorganics.com/product/the-alaska-gardener-complete-gardening-course-package/